On a trip to this thrumming city about 15 years ago, art historian Michael Stoughton hoped to visit a famous Baroque church in the Sanita neighborhood. An Italian friend said no — the area was ...

On a trip to this thrumming city about 15 years ago, art historian Michael Stoughton hoped to visit a famous Baroque church in the Sanita neighborhood. An Italian friend said no — the area wa… ...

On a trip to this thrumming city about 15 years ago, art historian Michael Stoughton hoped to visit a famous Baroque church in the Sanita neighborhood. An Italian friend said no — the area was ...

For years, this southern Italian capital was a tourist afterthought. Venice had canals. Rome had the Vatican. Naples had smog, litter, street crime, flies, graffiti and crazed Vespa drivers. That ...